puch ZA50 1st gear treat clutch
puch ZA50 1st gear treat clutch
 



  $92.50

 :*sorry none today*

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you can now completely rebuild a two speed puch engine! Replace and tune your ZA50 clutches!
this is the 1st gear clutch.

you will no longer use the tab washer with these clutches!

**achtung!! this version features a NEW improved clutch lining** wow!!! who would have ever thought? me? you ? mr rogers?

"the power of 3s is evident in ZA50 treat clutchs"

attention!! you must chamfer the part of the clutch where the spring hooks in so that it has a smoother edge to prevent the spring from snapping somewhere in the future...it is at the utmost importance to do this and prevent damage to your engine!!

break a clutch spring rippin too hard? wanna get on the pipe earlier? try these malossi springs....for race

83.5mm OD
3.5mm friction material thickness

SO, if you happen to get both za50 clutches (which you should, but they are sold separately!!) here is some help.

these clutches are the best, i LOVE them, they RIP. seriously. and they are bulletproof. i only trust these in my za50's from now on!








taco rating taco rating 4 of 5 4 of 5 Total Reviews: 14 give your taco rating here

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4 of 5 Sigh, here's the thing May 9, 2023
taco eater : Mike Boyd from Los Angeles, CA United States  
These are repros of the later model clutch shoes that came in European ZA50s like on the X30, originally made by Surflex. You can still get these OG clutches on sites like mofakult.ch (but they don't ship to US.) The image on these product pages has the 1st gear clutch shown backwards, which is maybe why so many problems exist in the comments below. Also there was a differently designed lock washer that came with these to prevent the nut from backing off, which Treats never carried. But you can dremel your own to work.

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4 of 5 Must fortify.... August 1, 2021
taco eater : Nathaniel Keith from White Hall , MD United States  
Definitely use the yellow malossi spring. As previously commented, definitely chamfer the spring holes. I gave the chain link axles an extra peen to ensure the links don't take out my engine... I still feel a bit worried... I'm tempted to pull the clutch and inspect in a few more rides, and even more tempted to tig tack the axles to the links. But my maxi rips with this clutch! No more fear at intersections or starting on hills!

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2 of 5 ok while it lasted May 9, 2021
taco eater : michael kuriger from Santa Clarita, CA United States  
did not use crappy springs that came with it. used molossi springs and it worked well until the hardware holding the clutch together came apart. (not the spring but that bicycle  chain link looking part that swivels)  Bits tossed about but luckily nothing further was damaged

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5 of 5 PLEASE READ THIS February 26, 2019
taco eater : Jonathan Feldman from Portland, OR United States  
First, you need a shim in between the 1st / 2nd treat clutches. Without it, the clutches will hit eachother. I used a peugeot pedal shim enlarged in the middle. I put it on top of the stock spacer that goes in between the clutches.

Secondly, your stock locking tab washer will no longer fit on top of first gear well. Make your own. Make sure it doesn't touch the chain links.

Third! The spacer between clutches will not fit correctly in the middle of first gear clutch. I got the dremel out and gave all 3 chain links a haircut allowing clearance for the spacer to fit properly.. Once again, don't let it touch the chain links.

FOURTH. Stock springs are trash. You can use variated vespa clutch springs. I have yellow 4.5k in first gear and black 2k in second gear flipped. 4.5k in first is a huge improvement over stock firsst gear. Slips a bit but not too much. Second clutch flipped with 2k springs was almost an exact equivalent of stock clutch flipped.

Have fun and be safe. Xoxo

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5 of 5 The springs 1st +2 in touch - need shiming between April 19, 2018
taco eater : Puch pasionate from Montreal QC Canada  
1st problem: the two plates springs can be in contact, so, it will need more space to separare the 2 plates , so it need  an extra shim on the top of the spacer with a thickness of engaging plate washer, but, you have to compensate by reducing and sand the security nut, overwise it will tuch the cluch bell. This may be a cause of accidents inside the cluch.
2nd : I THINK as the as the green spring wich is the thin one, goes to the first speed plate, and, the strong one goes to the second speed wich engage later at a hi RPM. Not like in the photo. I think as they have been wrong instaled at the factory.
3rd : I think as the springs hole have to be checked for 90 angles and sand this.


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